After 4 years, I was finally able to make a trip to Asia in February 2023. I wish I could bring Ariel with me. But I don’t think she will do very well in cargo on a 18-hour international flight. She ended up staying with her sitter in California who has two beautiful and playful dogs to keep her company. My first stop was Singapore, a country that has been on my list for too long. I spent 3.5 days there and had a wonderful time. Singapore is green, clean, safe, modern, diverse, efficient, and delicious. Other than the humidity, it is perfect to me.

Fun Facts about Singapore

  • Capital: Singapore – there is no state or city
  • Size: about 25km from north to south and 50km from east to west – and that is after extensive land reclamation projects
  • Population diversity: Chinese (74%) -> Malay (14%) -> India (9%); it’s a melting pot of all cultures
  • Official language: English, Malay, Mandarin, and Tamil; never worry about the language barrier – everyone speaks at least a little English, even the hawker stall owners
  • Nickname: Garden City – you will be surprised by the variety of parks, plants, and flowers in this city; it even has a massive garden inside its airport
  • National sport: Eating!

Weather in Singapore

Singapore is a tropical country. Whenever you go, bring summer clothes and sunscreens. I was shocked by how hot and humid it was in February. It was on average 84F everyday during my stay and felt 90F due to the humidity. My local friend told me that was actually colder than a typical February. Drink lots of fluid as you will be drenched in sweat all the time.

I also under-estimated the winter sun and got sun burnt. Even though it looked gloomy and cloudy, the UV light was very strong. Putting on sunscreen at all times is essential.

Singapore is also rainy and stormy. It rains over 160 days a year. I experienced a big but short storm during my stay. It lasted for about an hour, pouring cats and dogs with thunder storms. I got wet inside out after two minutes. Make sure to bring rain jackets or umbrellas every day.

How Many Days to Spend in Singapore

This really depends on your schedule. Given Singapore’s small size, you will be able to fit all the popular sightseeing spots within one or two days. On the other hand, it’s also a modern and beautiful city. You won’t be bored even if you stay for a week. There are so many things to do such as trying out different hawker stalls, visiting museums, biking on tree-lined streets, enjoying the late night bars, or even having a day-trip to Sentosa.

Currency Exchange and Cost of Living in Singapore

You don’t need cash to get around in Singapore. However, if you want to eat at hawker stalls, which in my opinion is a must, you have to bring cash because almost all of them are cash-only. So I recommend you get Singapore dollars when you can before your trip so that you have time to do your research and get a lower exchange rate. Don’t worry if you run out of time to do that. The airport, hotels, and shopping areas all provide currency exchange services.

Living in Singapore is quite expensive. I feel it’s about the same as living in California. After converting the cost of my accommodation, transportation, and food into USD, I probably spent a similar amount of money as if I travelled in New York City. Food hawker stalls are exceptions. It usually is very cheap to eat there.

Transportation in Singapore

Getting around in Singapore can’t be easier. All taxis, buses and subways take credit cards and e-wallets. You don’t even need to buy tickets. Just swipe your card or phone at the entrance. I booked a hop-on/hop-off bus tour. But it turned out to be unnecessary. I don’t recommend it either because it’s much less frequent than public transportation and has limited routes. Take advantage of the efficient public transportation system! I loved riding the buses in particular. Many of them have two stories. You can enjoy the beautiful views and fresh air on Level 2 or stay cool on Level 1 with air conditioning. If you need a ride, the Uber/Lyft-equivalent in Singapore is Grab.

Biking is another option I highly recommend. Singapore is very bike-friendly and flat – thank god it doesn’t have crazy steep hills like San Francisco. There are many bike sharing systems and stations all over the island. When you find one, scan the QR code, download the app, read the instructions, input your credit card information, unlock a bike, and you are good to go. You will be charged based on how long you ride through the app automatically. I grabbed a shared bike in front of my hotel in Robertson Quay and biked to Gardens by the Bay. It was beautiful all the way. I passed through parks and gardens, along the Singapore River and Marina Bay, and under the massive canopies of leafy trees. It was very healing and relaxing and didn’t feel like I was exercising at all.

Where to Stay in Singapore

The answer is anywhere! Singapore is so safe that there’s no bad neighborhood per se. It’s also a small city with efficient public transportation. So even if you live a bit far from touristy places, it’s still very easy to get around. I do want to lower your expectation on hotel rooms though. They are much crammed than the US version because land is a scarce resource in Singapore. The following neighborhoods are the most popular among tourists.

  • Marina Bay: It’s the most touristy and expensive area in Singapore, well-known for the fancy hotel and shopping center – Marina Bay Sands, the Merlion statue, and Gardens by the Bay.
  • Civic District: It’s also very expensive but close to historical architectures, famous landmarks, and great museums.
  • Chinatown: It’s right next to Marina Bay and much affordable; it is not only close to great Chinese food but also the most accessible area in my opinion – very easy to get to other places from here.
  • Bugis: You will find lots of budget hotels here. It’s close to all types of delicious street foods and has a young and hippie vibe.
  • Clarke Quay: It’s a neighborhood of western culture and famous for the dazzling nightlife scene on the banks of the Singapore River.
  • Orchard Road: This street is full of malls and restaurants, less touristy and more for the locals

Stay Connected in Singapore

Let’s be honest, no one can survive without Internet nowadays, not mention you are in a different country. At the very least, we need it for navigation. The easiest way to stay connected is probably to activate the international plan of your current mobile carrier. And that’s what I did. It saved me the hassle of looking for local carriers, switching SIM cards, using different numbers, etc. especially when I had to travel to multiple countries in the same trip. But if that option is too expensive for you, it’s very easy to get a local SIM card after you arrive at Changi Airport.

Must-See Places in Singapore

Gardens by the Bay

Gardens by the Bay is no doubt a must-see. If you want to do it justice, you need to spend a day there. The garden is free to the public. You can walk around, dine in at the restaurants inside the garden, or even have a picnic on the lawn. However, the exhibits are not free. They are much prettier and more special than the general garden and much worth the price. There are multiple exhibits at the same time. Each of them requires a separate admission. It’s highly recommended to book it and reserve your spot in advance especially during summer time and weekends. No printing is needed. Just scan the QR code of your reservation at each entrance.

Gardens by the Bay (free area)

Popular Exhibits

Cloud Forest is an Avatar themed exhibit, magical and stunning. They brought Pandora into life! You will find a mountain of exotic plants and flowers thriving here thanks to the tropical climate. As you stroll on the Cloud Walks in the mountain, you will find various interactive sections – you get to find out your Avatar look and have your own banshee ride.

Floral Fantasy is equally beautiful in a different way. It felt like I walked into a fairy tale the moment I stepped in. Suspended bouquets and creative floral arrangements made my princess dream come true.

Floral Fantasy (the fancy ceiling)

Flower Dome collects floral plants from all types of habitats around the world. On my day of visit, it had a seasonal exhibition for Lunar New Year celebrating the Year of Rabbit. The entire dome was in a jubilant vibe with red lanterns, spring festival couplets, fruitful orange trees, displays and drawings of rabbits jumping among bright roses, tulips, peonies, and camellias.

Flower Dome (Lunar New Year theme)

Light Show

Last but not the least, you can’t miss the daily light show in the garden at 7:45pm and 8:45pm (the two time slots have the same show). Dazzling lights dance on the Supertrees with beautiful music. It was extremely impressive. The show is free but you need to go early to save a spot on the plaza. Alternatively, you could watch it on the Supertree Observatory, which is a suspension walk amidst the Supertrees and also the highest point of the garden. That’s what I did. Although you need to pay for admission, it would be less crowded and you will get an unparalleled view of the gardens and the Marina Bay area.

Light Show (view on the Supertree Observatory)

Marina Bay Sands and Surroundings

Marina Bay Sands is the most iconic building in Singapore. It is a luxurious hotel with unparalleled views but also a one-stop travel destination that combines shopping malls, casinos, waterfront, spa, swimming pool, and various fun activities. Even if you don’t live there, it’s a must-see in Singapore. I stayed there for one night and shared my exploration and experience in another blog.

Civic District

If you are into Singapore’s history, a tour of the Civic District is a must. You will see the Old Parliament House, the Old Supreme Court, the City Hall, and the famous Asian Civilizations Museum. Fort Canning is a beautiful park to visit too. It was once used for military purposes due to its high elevation.

Sentosa

Sentosa is an island of Singapore, connected through road and by cable car. It is a vacation spot for the locals and well-known for amusement parks like the Universal Studio, Adventure Cove Waterpark, and 4D AdventureLand. But I went there for natural sceneries. I took the cable car ride and very much enjoyed the beautiful view of the jungly island and the busy Singapore Harbor between the mainland and Sentosa.

Cable Car Ride

The cable car ride was only about 15 minutes and divided into two sections. The Mount Faber Line runs from Mount Faber through HarbourFront Station and ends at Sensota Station. Mount Faber by itself is a great place for hiking and dining while overlooking Singapore’s CBD area. The Mount Faber Line offers a panoramic view of the Singapore Harbor, the urban city line, and the lush forest of Sentosa. The Sentosa Line runs within Sentosa, although I found it unnecessary given Sentosa’s small size (1.82 square miles). You don’t have to get on and off to change lines. The division simply offers you the flexibility to get off wherever you want.

Top of Mount Faber

Sentosa, the Island of an Island

Another way to enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Sentosa is through SkyHelix, which is a ride like a super slow version of the Giant Drop at Six Flags. If you buy the cable car pass, it’s included in the ticket. SkyHelix is located right next to the Sentosa Station. It will gently bring you to a height of 79 meters above sea level and rotates slowly once reaching the top. You will get a 360-degree view of not only Sentosa but also all nearby islands including Malaysia.

Sentosa itself was a little disappointing to me maybe because I didn’t go for the amusement parks. I hiked through the tropical forest all the way to the beaches. The hot and humid weather made the 1.5-mile flat hike super hard. But the forest was luxuriant, green, and peaceful. I will never be able to see this much green in California. The beaches were not as nearly crowded as in California. But the coastline was also not as pretty and clear because there were way too many cargo ships close to the beaches.

Beautiful, luxuriant, and green rainforest of Sentosa

Chinatown, Kampong Gelam, and Little India

Thanks to Singapore’s diverse population, these little neighborhoods of different ethnic groups are lively. They may not be as glamourous as Marina Bay but vividly and realistically reflect local people’s life. One of the reasons why they are so authentic is religion. I’m truly impressed by how open-minded Singapore is, welcoming all regions to this small island. In Chinatown, you will find the oldest Hindu temple, Sri Mariamman Temple, only a few blocks away from the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. In Kampong Gelam, one of the city streets was forced to bend around the famous Sultan Mosque during its reconstruction.

Another reason for their authenticity is food which plays a crucial role in Asian cultures. To be honest, food was the reason I visited these neighborhoods. I have a list of spots to try in the next section.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Sultan Mosque

Must-Try Foodie Spots in Singapore

Singaporeans are not joking when they say their national sport is eating. Along with cultural diversity, different ethnic groups bring a wide range of authentic cuisines to Singapore. I barely scratched the surface of it during my stay. Here are my recommendations. Most of them are hawker stalls or small restaurants that don’t have air conditioning. But it didn’t bother me. All of them were amazing.

NG AH SIO Bak Kut Teh

I’m never a fan of non-spicy pork ribs. NG AH SIO Bak Kut Teh is an exception. Bak Kut Teh is a simple dish that is essentially a meat stew of pork ribs simmered in herbs and spices. But making the ribs soft, savory, and juicy with its natural flavor without any metallic smell is extremely hard. NG AH SIO does a very impressive job. If I have to rank it, this dish is my No.1 of this trip. NG AH SIO has many locations around Singapore and they take credit cards.

NG AH SIO Bak Kut Teh

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice is located at the Maxwell Food Center in Chinatown. Don’t be surprised by the long line at any time of the day. This’s a Michelin hawker stall. The dish may look plain and unimpressive. But it tasted amazing. The meat of the chicken was very tender and the skin tasted like jelly. Even the rice was full of chicken fragrance. Definitely the best Hainanese chicken rice I’ve had in my life. Note that it takes cash only just like most hawker stalls.

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice

Ya Kun Kaya Toast

Ya Kun Kaya Toast is a nationwide chain restaurant in Singapore that started as a coffee stall in 1944. It’s definitely a success story of an immigrant entrepreneur. It’s famous for its butter sugar toasts and runny soft boiled eggs. Both the food and drinks were very tasty. However, the toast by itself was a bit too sweet for me. But it went well with the egg and unsweetened milk tea / coffee. So overall, it is a must-try and be ready for the long lines. Ya Kun also has many locations and take credit cards.

Ya Kun Kaya Toast (the classic combo)

Sungei Road Laksa

Your Singapore trip will be incomplete without a proper Laksa. There are many great options too. Sungei Road Laksa is a famous hawker stall for it. You literally have only two options here: small or large bowl. Both are under 5 Singapore dollars. It’s delicious food with great value. I loved the thick, creamy, and well-balanced broth and finished my bowl bottoms up. However, you may find the stall a bit cocky – it closes around 4pm, takes cash only, doesn’t allow photos or videos, and doesn’t provide chopsticks; it’s not that close to any major landmarks or popular tourist destinations either. Well, the food speaks for itself.

Sungei Road Laksa

1A Crispy Puffs

Singaporeans really know how to fry things right. 1A Crispy Puffs is a great example. It is a bakery-type of chain you can find all over Singapore and well-known for its curry chicken puffs. The puffs are crispy and crumbly from the outside, not oily at all and filled with fresh and delicious curry chicken and vegetables. The most amazing part is that it remains crispy and tasty even when served cold right after taken out from the fridge. Give their dessert puffs a try as well. They are equally amazing. The ingredients are so fresh.

1A Crispy Puffs

Chatterbox

Chatterbox is an upscale restaurant located inside Hilton on the Orchard Road. In case you want to have a relatively fancy dining experience after a shopping day, this restaurant is a great choice that serves local food with great service. You can find all types of Asian cuisines here, from Hainanese chicken to lobster laksa, and won’t disappoint.

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle is another famous hawker stall that always has long lines in front of it and takes cash only. It serves the best Bak Chor Mee in Singapore and used to have a Michelin star. The noodles are topped with different types of meat from a pig such as meatballs, minced pork, fried skins, etc. Like Hainanese chicken, the dish doesn’t look appealing. But you will be pleasantly surprised that the natural and fresh flavor of all the toppings goes so well with the right amount of spiciness, vinegar, and soy sauce.

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle

The Coconut Club – Nasi Lemak

The Coconut Club serves great coconut recipes if you are in the Kampong Gelam neighborhood. They offer delicious coconut milk drinks and coffee as well as the Malaysia’s national dish, nasi lemak. Nasi lemak is a rice dish cooked in coconut milk and served with anchovies, peanuts, egg and spicy shrimp paste. I enjoyed the fragrance of the rice much more than the toppings. There were also many options for sides. I ordered otah, which is a Southeast Asia snack made of ground fish wrapped in leaves. It was very flavorful – Asians know how to make good use of different spices.

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