Life with ArielThe last time I visited Hong Kong was about 11 years ago. It was a networking trip organized by my graduate school. All I could remember was shuttling at Central District from one company to another in sweat and stress. For my 2023 vacation in Asia, I laid over in Hong Kong for two days and decided to give it a proper visit. As a big TVB fan deeply influenced by Hong Kong movies and TV shows, I was glad the city was just what I imagined it would be like – fancy luxuries and modern skyscrapers co-existing with mundane mom-and-pop businesses on the same streets, busy, crowded, and bustling.
Accommodation and Transportation
Hong Kong mostly consists of Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula, separated by Victoria Harbor. To me, Hong Kong Island represents Hong Kong’s finance and business center, whereas Kowloon showcases its culture, traditions, and history.
If it’s your first visit to Hong Kong, I recommend to stay in a hotel close to Victoria Harbor on either Hong Kong Island or the Kowloon Peninsula. Although more expensive, it will be closer to most touristy spots and well connected by subway (or MTR). You may also get a harbor view from your room. It’s beautiful at night when the lights are up.
To get around in Hong Kong, it’s important to get an Octopus Card (or “Ba Da Tong”) at the airport or a convenience store, especially if you plan to take taxis during your stay. Taxis only take Octopus Card or cash. Octopus Card can also be used at many other places: public transportation, small local restaurants that don’t take credit cards, convenience stores, etc.
Day 1 (half day): Hong Kong Island – The Peak
I arrived in Hong Kong around 5pm. My hotel was at Sheung Wan on Hong Kong Island. So I decided to spend the night on this island.
After checking in, I went to Kau Kee Food Cafe for its Michelin-starred beef noodles. The wait was not too bad for me. After 5 minutes, I was able to squeeze in at a table with two couples – yes, sharing tables at local restaurants is a must and a unique experience in Hong Kong. This cafe is usually always crowded and the line can be hours long. Thanks to China’s COVID travel restriction between the mainland and Hong Kong at the time, tourism had not fully picked up when I was there. The noodles lived up to its reputation mainly because the beef broth was very tasty. I could tell it’s been cooked for hours. Try the milk tea too. It goes well with the noodles.
After dinner, I took the Peak Tram to the famous Victoria Peak, which is a must-do activity in Hong Kong. The tram has been in operation for over 130 years! It rises to 396 meters (about 1,300 feet) above sea level. It is so steep that, on the way up, the trees outside the window look like they are falling down into the park below. At The Peak, you will get a stunning view of Hong Kong’s skyline and have a great experience shopping and dining. Make sure you get the ticket to Sky Terrace 428 at The Peak. It is the highest viewing platform in Hong Kong that offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and Victoria Harbor. I really enjoyed the colorful and glaring night view there.
Day 2: The Kowloon Peninsula
There are multiple ways to cross Victoria Harbor from Hong Kong Island to the Kowloon Peninsula. The most efficient way is to take the subway. The most scenic way is to hop on a ferry. The famous Star Ferry is an over 130 years old passenger ferry service operating between the two islands. It costs less than 5 HKD one way and offers a great view of the harbor.
Morning – Tsim Sha Tsui and Kowloon Park
I started my day with delicious dim sum at Tim Ho Wan – it means “adding good luck” in Chinese. This Michelin-starred dim sum restaurant originally started in Mong Kok but now has multiple branches all over Hong Kong. It’s famous for its baked barbecue pork buns. I’m picky when it comes to barbecue pork buns. The good ones are a combination of balanced lean and fat pork, right amount of sweet level, fresh buns, and crunchy puff pastry. Tim Ho Wan’s buns checked all the boxes!
My next stop was Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade. It’s a scenic walk next to Victoria Harbor. It’s also where Avenue of Stars is located. On the railings of the walkway, you will find inscriptions of hand prints and autographs from celebrities of Hong Kong film industry. Those familiar names, deceased or current, reminded me of my childhood and the time I spent with them in front of TV. On the other side of the walk are luxury shopping malls, coffee shops, and restaurants. You can easily spend half a day on this promenade.
As you walk up the famous Nathan Road, the major thoroughfare of Kowloon, you will find more shopping malls, hotels, and restaurants. The beautiful Kowloon Park is also on this road. It’s a great spot to take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy some greens, flowers, and fountains. It even has a bird park and heritage discovery center.
Afternoon – Mong Kok and Jordan
Mong Kok is 3 MTR stops away from Kowloon Park. It is a popular neighborhood to visit if you want to get a sense of authentic local life without glamours. There are too many good food options here. Among everything, the Hong Kong style cafes are a must-try. They are well known for quick and simple dishes such as pineapple buns, toasts, fried noodles, and fried rices. My lunch was at Kam Wah Cafe & Cake Shop. You have to try their pineapple buns. The sweet and hot bun went so well with the salty and cold butter. Wash it down with some unsweetened milk tea. That is what I call the taste of Hong Kong.
I wanted to eat at Temple Street Night Market because of a favorite childhood TVB drama. This’s the place for cheap street food and souvenirs. But I got there too early. The food stands were not set up yet. Instead, I went to Australia Dairy Company for dessert (or Tong Sui). As its name suggests, it’s known for its dairy products and dishes. I highly recommend their Steamed Egg Pudding with Almond Milk and Steamed Egg White Pudding with Milk. They can be served both hot and cold. Either way they are smooth and refreshing. You can expect long lines in front of this cafe at any time of the day. It’s a favorite of both locals and tourists.
Evening – A Symphony of Lights
I went back to Tsim Sha Tsui and did a bit of window shopping before I got on Aqua Luna (or Cheung Po Tsai) for a 45-minute harbor tour. It’s a cruise on a red-sail junk boat. For tours at night, you will be able to watch A Symphony of Lights on board. A Symphony of Lights is a dynamic light show connecting 42 buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbor with music effects. It is the world’s largest permanent light and sound show, according to Guinness World Records. Watching this show in a boat on the harbor was an amazing immersive experience.
Day 3 (half day): Hong Kong Island – Causeway Bay & Central District Promenade
My main goal for Day 3 was to experience shopping at Causeway Bay. I was short on time. So for breakfast, I picked a random cafe, Mong Kee BBQ Restaurant, for cantonese barbecue on my way to Causeway Bay. It was surprisingly good. The meat tasted fresh, juicy, and flavorful. People dining there appeared to be residents from the neighborhood, which gave me more confidence in their food.
If you don’t mind the crowd, Causeway Bay is indeed a shopping paradise. You can find everything from affordable brands to top luxuries, from Times Square, SOHO, to Hysan Place. There are many dining options around as well.
On my way back to the hotel to pick up my luggage, I went to Central District Promenade to take a last glance of Victoria Harbor. It is connected with the grassy Tamar Park. The entire area provided excellent view of the harbor and Tsim Sha Tsui skyline. At the time I went, there were cute miniature artworks installed on the railings of the viewing platforms. They mimicked small rooms facing the harbor.
My last bite in Hong Kong was at Block 18 Doggie’s Noodle. Don’t be fooled by its name. There’s no dog meat in it. It’s named after the dog tail-shaped glutinous rice noodle. Doggie’s noodle is an old fashioned street snack, a flavorful soup noodle topped with fried pork, pork skin and radish. Block 18 has multiple locations and was once Michelin-starred. Apparently, it is popular among celebrities as you will find their pictures with the owner at the stores. It also offers other types of snacks like fish balls and dumplings.
