Glacier National Park: Overrated? What to See?

Glacier National Park, a breathtaking expanse in Montana’s Rocky Mountains, is renowned for its rugged beauty and diverse ecosystems. Its dramatic landscapes encompass glacier-carved peaks and valleys, pristine forests, alpine meadows, and over 700 lakes. Its diverse habitats are home to abundant wildlife including grizzly bears, mountain goats, and lynx. The park’s iconic Going-to-the-Sun Road offers spectacular views, while over 700 miles of trails invite hikers to explore remote areas.

Its spectacular wilderness makes the park extremely popular and crowded especially during the peak season of June through September. If you are wondering whether it’s really worth the hustle, my opinion is no based on my 2-day stay there. But the real answer depends on what you are looking for and how much time you have. In this blog, I will talk about why I think it’s overrated and what to see in the park if you have limited time.

Getting around in Glacier National Park

National park trips typically require lots of planning ahead of time due to their popularity. And the most difficult part is to get accommodations that are inside or reasonably close to the park. It’s the same for Glacier National Park. Additionally, you will have to make more arrangements way ahead of time for this park.

Vehicle Reservations

Glacier National Park requires vehicle reservations that have to be booked in advance for its most scenic areas. If you want to visit Going-to-the-Sun Road, North Fork, Many Glacier Valley and Two Medicine Valley from 6am to 3pm during peak season (late June to early September), you will need separate vehicle reservations. And rangers are very strict about it. For example, Going-to-the-Sun Road is the most iconic road in Glacier National Park and the only road that connects the West and East sides of the park. Without a vehicle reservation, you can’t even get into the park or any visitor centers.

Moreover, just like campgrounds inside the park, vehicle reservations are extremely hard to get. It’s gone for the entire season seconds after the slots are released online. Of course, if you have reservations to services in those areas such as campgrounds, you can drive on the road without a vehicle reservation, but only for those days for which you have service reservations.

Vehicle Size Restrictions

Even if you have a vehicle reservation, not all vehicles are allowed on Going-to-the-Sun Road. Vehicles longer than 21ft, wider than 8ft, or taller than 10ft are prohibited between Avalanche Creek and Rising Sun because of narrow turns and rock overhangs. This means most RVs and campervans are not allowed on the most scenic section of the iconic road. And again, rangers are strict about it and will stop you if your vehicle is over the limit.

Driving and Parking on Going-to-the-Sun Road

In addition to vehicle restrictions, driving Going-to-the-Sun Road is hard. It’s a narrow, windy road on a cliff. And you have to deal with cars trying to parallel park, crossing pedestrians, shuttle buses picking up and dropping off visitors, and heavy traffic. You won’t be able to drive fast. In fact, there’s a speed limit for the road – 40 mph in lower elevations and 25 mph in the alpine section. This means, the 33-mile drive from the East entrance (St. Mary) to the middle section (Avalanche Lake Campground) will realistically take about at least 1.5 hours non-stop. So you have to plan for enough gas and time to just drive around. 

Moreover, parking is extremely limited and difficult. In big parking lots, even at visitor centers, it’s almost impossible to find a spot after 9:30am. For some vista points and trailheads along Going-to-the-Sun Road, the parking spots are parallel at the edge of the cliff on the congested, narrow road. Even if I was allowed to bring my RV, I would not want to, as I would never be able to park in such conditions.

Constructions and Closures

To make things worse, the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Road, from the foot of Lake McDonald to North Lake McDonald Road, was under construction during my visit in September 2023. This 9.3-mile section was unpaved, uneven, and congested. Low clearance vehicles had a hard time in this section. It took me about 1 hour to drive through. Besides constructions, various parts of the park may be closed due to bear activities or weather conditions. So I recommend always checking the park’s website for latest updates. 

Shuttle Service

Thankfully, Glacier National Park provides free shuttle service along Going-to-the-Sun Road for visitors who don’t have vehicle reservations or don’t want to drive by themselves. The shuttle service doesn’t require any reservation. However, it’s not as organized and efficient as those in other national parks. For example, Zion National Park’s shuttle service is much better. For one, the wait time at different stops varies a lot, perhaps due to the unpredictable traffic condition on such a narrow and windy road.

Furthermore, shuttle transfers are required if you want to go through the park from the west to the east. Shuttles for the West side of the park (Apgar Visitor Center to Logan Pass) and the East side of the park (St. Mary Visitor Center to Logan Pass) are faster and bigger. But the section between Logan Pass and Avalanche Creek requires a smaller vehicle. So you have to transfer shuttles, which may cause delays as a result. To help you plan, the shuttle ride takes about 2.5-3 hours one way from the West side to the East side non-stop. And this estimate is probably on the low end. As you can imagine, you will likely spend most of your day on the road and can hike only one trail per day.

Pets

Like other US national parks, Glacier National Park is not dog friendly. In fact, I think it’s even less dog friendly than other parks because I couldn’t find any dog friendly trails in the park, whereas other national parks typically have one or two trails that allow dogs. Additionally, it’s almost impossible to walk dogs on Going-to-the-Sun Road given the heavy traffic, steep cliffs, and narrow lanes. Dogs are also not allowed on backcountry trails. Even when roads are closed to vehicle traffic, they still don’t allow dogs because those roads are considered backcountry trails. As a result, I had to leave Ariel in the RV for the most part and take only short trails by myself during my stay. 

What to See in Glacier National Park

Despite all the above, Glacier National Park is truly beautiful and magnificent. The hiking trails and views will not disappoint. To me personally, given that I just returned from Alaska, the scenery was not as impressive as I expected (maybe because my expectation was too high given the hype about this park). Nonetheless, I did enjoy the views and here are my recommendations. 

Going-to-the-Sun Road

As mentioned above, Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park is a must-see. It’s an iconic road stretching over 50 miles, traversing the heart of the park, and showcasing natural beauty. It winds its way through some of the most stunning landscapes in the American Rockies, offering breathtaking views of glacier-carved valleys, pristine alpine meadows, and rugged mountain peaks. As it climbs to its highest point at Logan Pass, the road provides access to numerous hiking trails and scenic overlooks. The journey along Going-to-the-Sun Road is a visual feast, featuring cascading waterfalls, wildflower-filled hillsides, and diverse wildlife. This road is not just a means of travel but a destination in itself.

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail

The Trail of the Cedars and the Avalanche Lake Trail in Glacier National Park are among the park’s most accessible and picturesque trails. The Trail of the Cedars, a 1-mile flat loop, winds through a lush forest of ancient cedar trees and hemlocks. It features a boardwalk that meanders alongside the rushing waters of Avalanche Creek, leading to a striking view of Avalanche Gorge with its vibrant, glacially-fed waters.

Extending from the Trail of the Cedars, the path to Avalanche Lake is a moderately challenging hike, about 4.5 miles round-trip with an elevation gain of 700 feet. It follows the beautiful Avalanche Creek upstream, gradually ascending through a dense, verdant forest. The hike ends at Avalanche Lake, a serene and picturesque mountain lake. The tranquil lake is cradled by steep cliffs on three sides with snow-capped peaks and cascading waterfalls, a breathtaking and memorable scene.

Logan Pass and Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Logan Pass is the highest point accessible by car in Glacier National Park. As a vital stop along the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, it’s a prime viewing spot for stunning vistas of alpine landscapes. The area is also a starting point for popular hikes such as the Highline Trail and the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail. I took the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail which is about 2.7 miles round trip. 

It was a journey through stunning alpine meadows decorated by vibrant wildflowers and streams of meltwaters from nearby glaciers. I also saw multiple mountain goats on the way. The trail consists of boardwalks and dirt trails, climbing gently to a scenic vantage point over Hidden Lake. On the left, the aqua blue lake was quietly set against a dramatic backdrop of towering mountains and glaciers. On the right, a sea of cotton-like clouds floated below me, tucked between majestic peaks and hovering above verdant forests.

Lake McDonald

Lake McDonald is the largest lake in Glacier National Park. Nestled amidst Montana’s rugged mountains, it spans 10 miles in length offering a serene landscape with crystal clear waters. The lake’s shores are dotted with colorful pebbles and surrounded by lush forests and towering peaks. You can engage in a variety of activities, such as boat tours, kayaking, and hiking along scenic trails. It’s also a peaceful spot for sunrise or sunset.

Saint Mary Lake

Saint Mary Lake is the second-largest lake in Glacier National Park. It’s visible and accessible from Going-to-the-Sun Road. Its crystal-clear waters mirror the majestic mountains surrounding it. The lake’s vibrant blue hues contrast sharply with the lush greenery of the surrounding hillsides and the rugged, snow-capped peaks. I loved the tranquil beauty of the lake and the picturesque views of the surroundings.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

I didn’t have time for the Grinnell Glacier Trail. It’s about 10 miles long with over 2,000ft in elevation. Based on my research, this’s the trail to hike if you only have time for one trail in Glacier National Park. It’s a breathtaking adventure that leads you through some of the most scenic landscapes in the park. The path winds past pristine lakes, over rocky terrains, and through vibrant wildflower meadows. As you ascend, you are treated to panoramic views of glaciers and their surrounding mountains. The trail culminates at the Grinnell Glacier, an awe-inspiring sight with its vast expanse of ice and snow. The melting glacier feeds into Grinnell Lake below, creating a vivid turquoise pool.

Many Glacier Valley

I heard Many Glacier Valley in Glacier National Park is worth a visit. However, I didn’t get the vehicle reservation so had to pass. Located in the northeastern part of the park, Many Glacier offers access to many scenic and challenging trails that feature active glaciers and crystal-clear lakes, including the picturesque Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes. Many Glacier is also a prime spot for wildlife viewing, with frequent sightings of bears, moose, and mountain goats.